![]() ![]() Just look at the curve and keep the engine making as much horsepower as you can and you will be increasing kinetic energy at the maximum rate possible. If you have the complete curve of horsepower vs RPM, you have all you need to choose shift points. Horsepower is, basically, the rate at which the torque of the engine is converted into kinetic energy. Torque is based on force, which is less abstract than horsepower, which is based on energy. Horsepower and torque are two different ways of presenting the same data, so using one or the other always has to give the same answer. ![]() I'll take a stab at what is often made out to be more complicated than it needs to be. Perhaps it's time I gained a better understanding of the subject. I think I'll try them and see what they say, especially in terms of providing context. I now wish I'd brought this question to them, because I'm certain they'd take one look at the data and say "This RPM is where you want to shift." And the recommendation would have come with a good bit of insight, which with this hobby is something I always feel that I need. ![]() Over the years, this shop has built quite a number of sports cars for IMSA/Grand Am/World Challenge and done very well at it (e.g., landing sponsors as major as McDonald's for its Daytona Prototypes). I was at another race shop yesterday (i.e., not the one with the shift-at-6K recommendation). It does look like spinning the engine up to 6500K makes sense for the 3-4 shift, as that would be necessary to be at 5K after the shift. Using Dinan's results for the stock engine output, there's a negligible decrease in HP when dropping from 6K to 5K during a 4-5 shift, but there's an 18% increase in torque. I agree, as long as u stay above the rpm for maximum torque ( or near ) then shift halfway between that and the rpm for maximum horsepower. ![]()
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